Aprilia Sr 50 Factory New Workshop Manual - [Unlimited Free EPub]
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Aprilia Sr 50 Factory New Workshop Manual - [Unlimited Free EPub]
This has nothing to do with the direction you move the gear lever, it simply means that you change to a higher gear (4 or 5) or a lower gear (1 or 2). For example, you would change down to a lower gear when climbing a hill or pulling away at low speed. The following table indicates typical speed and revs for changing gears up or down. When you want to slow down, use the foot brake.You can practice this when the car is stationary and the engine is switched off, but make sure that you keep the clutch pedal pressed down to the floor. This is very useful when trying to find and select third or fourth gear. Cup your hand around the gear lever and move it across to the left and forward. Move the gear lever forward, allow it to spring into the central neutral position then move it forward to select third gear. Any place where it is necessary to use both hands to steer the car, such as a corner or bend would not be suitable. The two actions are almost simultaneous. Again the two actions are almost simultaneous. For the social concept, see Downshifting (lifestyle). Since the 1950s, constant-mesh manual transmissions have become increasingly commonplace and the number of forward ratios has increased to 5-speed and 6-speed manual transmissions for current vehicles.Alternately, there are older semi-automatic (specifically clutchless manual ) transmissions, which are based on the design of conventional manual transmission, with a gear shifter, and are mechanically similar to a conventional manual transmission, with the driver's control and input still being required to manually change gears, like with a standard manual transmission, but the clutch system is completely automated, and the mechanical linkage for the clutch pedal is completely replaced by an actuator, servo, or solenoid, and sensors, which operate the clutch system automatically, when the driver touches or moves the gearshift. This removes the need for a physical clutch pedal.
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Most manual transmissions for cars allow the driver to select any gear ratio at any time, for example shifting from 2nd to 4th gear, or 5th to 3rd gear. However, sequential manual transmissions, which are commonly used in motorcycles and racing cars, only allow the driver to select the next-higher or next-lower gear.A clutch sits between the flywheel and the transmission input shaft, controlling whether the transmission is connected to the engine ( clutch engaged - the clutch pedal is not being pressed) or not connected to the engine ( clutch disengaged - the clutch pedal is being pressed down). When the engine is running and the clutch is engaged (i.e., clutch pedal up), the flywheel spins the clutch plate and hence the transmission.This is a fundamental difference compared with a typical hydraulic automatic transmission, which uses an epicyclic (planetary) design, and a hydraulic torque converter. Some automatic transmissions are based on the mechanical build and internal design of a manual transmission but have added components (such as computer -controlled actuators and sensors ) which automatically control the timing and speed of the gear shifts and clutch; this design is typically called an automated manual transmission (or sometimes a clutchless manual transmission ).Operating such transmissions often uses the same pattern of shifter movement with a single or multiple switches to engage the next sequence of gears.The driver was therefore required to use careful timing and throttle manipulation when shifting, so the gears would be spinning at roughly the same speed when engaged; otherwise, the teeth would refuse to mesh.Five-speed transmissions became widespread during the 1980s, as did the use of synchromesh on all forward gears.The first 6-speed manual transmission was introduced in the 1967 Alfa Romeo 33 Stradale.
This allows for a narrower transmission since the length of each countershaft is halved compared with one that contains four gears and two shifters.For example, a five-speed transmission might have the first-to-second selectors on the countershaft, but the third-to-fourth selector and the fifth selector on the main shaft. This means that when the vehicle is stopped and idling in neutral with the clutch engaged and the input shaft spinning, the third-, fourth-, and fifth-gear pairs do not rotate.For reverse gear, an idler gear is used to reverse the direction in which the output shaft rotates. In many transmissions, the input and output shafts can be directly locked together (bypassing the countershaft) to create a 1:1 gear ratio which is referred to as direct-drive.The assembly consisting of both the input and output shafts is referred to as the main shaft (although sometimes this term refers to just the input shaft or output shaft). Independent rotation of the input and output shafts is made possibly by one shaft being located inside the hollow bore of the other shaft, with a bearing located between the two shafts.The input shaft runs the whole length of the gearbox, and there is no separate input pinion.When the dog clutches for all gears are disengaged (i.e. when the transmission is in neutral), all of the gears are able to spin freely around the output shaft. When the driver selects a gear, the dog clutch for that gear is engaged (via the gear selector rods), locking the transmission's output shaft to a particular gear set.It has teeth to fit into the splines on the shaft, forcing that shaft to rotate at the same speed as the gear hub. However, the clutch can move back and forth on the shaft, to either engage or disengage the splines. This movement is controlled by a selector fork that is linked to the gear lever. The fork does not rotate, so it is attached to a collar bearing on the selector.
The selector is typically symmetric: it slides between two gears and has a synchromesh and teeth on each side in order to lock either gear to the shaft. Unlike some other types of clutches (such as the foot-operated clutch of a manual-transmission car), a dog clutch provides non-slip coupling and is not suited to intentional slipping.These devices automatically match the speed of the input shaft with that of the gear being selected, thus removing the need for the driver to use techniques such as double-clutching.Therefore, to speed up or slow down the input shaft as required, cone-shaped brass synchronizer rings are attached to each gear. In a modern gearbox, the action of all of these components is so smooth and fast it is hardly noticed. Many transmissions do not include synchromesh on the reverse gear (see Reverse gear section below).This is achieved through 'blocker rings' (also called 'baulk rings'). The synchro ring rotates slightly because of the frictional torque from the cone clutch. In this position, the dog clutch is prevented from engaging. Once the speeds are synchronized, friction on the blocker ring is relieved and the blocker ring twists slightly, bringing into alignment certain grooves or notches that allow the dog clutch to fall into the engagement.The latter involves the stamping the piece out of a sheet metal strip and then machining to obtain the exact shape required.These rings and sleeves have to overcome the momentum of the entire input shaft and clutch disk during each gearshift (and also the momentum and power of the engine, if the driver attempts a gearshift without fully disengaging the clutch). Larger differences in speed between the input shaft and the gear require higher friction forces from the synchromesh components, potentially increasing their wear rate.
Another unique aspect of the reverse gear is that it consists of two gears— an idler gear on the countershaft and another gear on the output shaft— and both of these are directly fixed to the shaft (i.e. they are always rotating at the same speed as the shaft). These gears are usually spur gears with straight-cut teeth which— unlike the helical teeth used for forward gear— results in a whining sound as the vehicle moves in reverse.To avoid grinding as the gears begin to the mesh, they need to be stationary. Since the input shaft is often still spinning due to momentum (even after the car has stopped), a mechanism is needed to stop the input shaft, such as using the synchronizer rings for 5th gear.This can take the form of a collar underneath the gear knob which needs to be lifted or requiring extra force to push the gearshift lever into the plane of reverse gear.Without a clutch, the engine would stall any time the vehicle stopped, and changing gears would be difficult (deselecting a gear while the transmission requires the driver to adjust the throttle so that the transmission is not under load, and selecting a gear requires the engine RPM to be at the exact speed that matches the road speed for the gear being selected).In most automobiles, the gear stick is located on the floor between the driver and front passenger, however, some cars have a gear stick that is mounted to the steering column or center console.Gear selection is usually via the left-foot (or, on older motorcycles; right-foot) shift lever with a layout of 1 - N - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6. This was actuated either manually while in high gear by throwing a switch or pressing a button on the gearshift knob or on the steering column, or automatically by momentarily lifting the foot from the accelerator with the vehicle traveling above a certain road speed.When the crankshaft spins as a result of the energy generated by the rolling of the vehicle, the motor is cranked over.
This simulates what the starter is intended for and operates in a similar way to crank handles on very old cars from the early 20th century, with the cranking motion being replaced by the pushing of the car.These abilities enable an experienced driver to fully use the available grip, maximize acceleration, and reduce (or promote) wheel spinning. The operation of the gearstick— another function that is not required on automatic transmission cars— means that the driver must take one hand off the steering wheel while changing gears. Another challenge is that smooth driving requires co-ordinated timing of the clutch, accelerator, and gearshift inputs. Lastly, a car with an automatic transmission obviously does not require the driver to make any decisions about which gear to use at any given time. On the other hand, being able to choose a specific gear and engine rpm setting manually gives the driver full control of the torque applied by the tires, a critical ability for racing, and important for spirited driving.This means that the driver's right foot is not needed to operate the brake pedal, freeing it up to be used on the throttle pedal instead. Once the required engine RPM is obtained, the driver can release the clutch, also releasing the parking brake as the clutch engages.This is especially useful on a track where optimum acceleration is needed.This provides for maximum braking when going from top gear to a much lower gear, and optimal engine RPM for exiting the corner. Please help improve it by rewriting it in an encyclopedic style. ( June 2020 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this template message ) Multi-control transmissions are built in much higher power ratings but rarely use synchromesh.The Standard types are:The first through fourth gears are accessed when a low range is selected. To access the fifth through eighth gears, the range selector is moved to high range, and the gear lever again shifted through the first through fourth gear positions.
In high range, the first gear position becomes fifth, the second gear position becomes sixth, and so on. This allows even more gear ratios. Both a range selector and a splitter selector are provided. In older trucks using floor-mounted levers, a bigger problem is common gear shifts require the drivers to move their hands between shift levers in a single shift, and without synchromesh, shifts must be carefully timed or the transmission will not engage. Also, each can be split using the thumb-actuated under-overdrive lever on the left side of the knob while in high range. L cannot be split using the thumb lever in either the 13- or 18-speed. The 9-speed transmission is like a 13-speed without the under-overdrive thumb lever.Transmissions may be in separate cases with a shaft in between; in separate cases bolted together; or all in one case, using the same lubricating oil. With a third transmission, gears are multiplied yet again, giving greater range or closer spacing. Some trucks thus have dozens of gear positions, although most are duplicates. Two-speed differentials are always splitters. In newer transmissions, there may be two counter shafts, so each main shaft gear can be driven from one or the other countershaft; this allows construction with short and robust countershafts, while still allowing many gear combinations inside a single gear case.Sometimes synchromesh adds weight that could be payload, and is one more thing to fail, and drivers spend thousands of hours driving so can take the time to learn to drive efficiently with a non-synchromesh transmission. Since the clutch is not used, it is easy to mismatch speeds of gears, and the driver can quickly cause major (and expensive) damage to the gears and the transmission.Diesel truck engines from the 1970s and earlier tend to have a narrow power band, so they need many close-spaced gears.
Starting with the 1968 Maxidyne, diesel truck engines have increasingly used turbochargers and electronic controls that widen the power band, allowing fewer and fewer gear ratios.Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. ( June 2020 ) ( Learn how and when to remove this template message ) Gear oil has a characteristic aroma because it contains added sulfur-bearing anti-wear compounds. These compounds are used to reduce the high sliding friction by the helical gear cut of the teeth (this cut eliminates the characteristic whine of straight-cut spur gears ).Retrieved 10 March 2020. By using this site, you agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. Turn the ignition key. If you are certain that the car is in neutral, you can remove your foot from the clutch. Ensure that the parking or emergency brake is not in use. Press the brake, or the center pedal, with your right foot. Position the gear shifter so that the transmission is in the first gear. Remove your right foot from the brake pedal. If you are on a flat surface, the vehicle should move very little. Slowly begin to place less pressure on the clutch with your left foot. Depending on the vehicle, you may feel it begin to slowly roll forward. As you gently release the clutch, begin to press the accelerator very delicately with your right foot. Once you have released the clutch completely, you should now only be pressing the accelerator with your right foot. Congratulations — you’re driving in first gear. Continue to build speed until you feel that you need to shift into second gear. To switch to the second gear, take your right foot off of the accelerator while simultaneously activating the clutch with your left foot. Your car will continue to roll. Move the gear shifter into second gear. Release the clutch as you begin to apply the accelerator again. Repeat this process to continue to build speed.
Some people call it learning how to drive stick or how to drive a manual. Whatever you call it, both are the same. Many drivers never learn how to drive a car with a manual transmission, or stick shift. The ability to drive a stick shift will allow you to drive any type of vehicle regardless of it being an automatic or manual. When first learning how to drive this type of vehicle, it is best to find a large parking lot or empty street on which to practice. For many drivers, learning to drive a stick shift is similar to learning to ride a bicycle; at first the task seems impossible, but after you acquire the skill you will never struggle again. The following directions will provide a basic guideline for your first few attempts at driving a car with a manual transmission. Passing your driving test shouldn’t be hard Be fully prepared in days, not weeks with Premium. Learn more 9 Easy Steps for Driving a Stick Shift 1 Understand the Different Pedals Before you begin to drive a stick shift, you need to understand how this type of car differs from cars with automatic transmissions. While seated in the driver’s seat, take a look at the three pedals at your feet. Clutch, gas and brake pedals in a car with a manual transmission The first pedal on the left is the clutch. This pedal appears only in cars with manual transmissions. The middle pedal is the brake. The right pedal is the accelerator. You will use your left foot for the clutch and your right foot for the brake and accelerator. When you push in the clutch, or step down with your left foot on the clutch pedal, you are disengaging the assembly. When you are lifting your foot off the clutch pedal, the friction of the assembly starts moving, causing your vehicle to move forward. 2 Understand the Gear Shifter Before starting the car, take a look at the gear shifter. Most cars with manual transmissions have a gear shifter in the middle of the passenger and driver seats.
Typical 5 speed manual gear shifter First gear is typically located at the top left corner and the remaining four or five gears rotate from top to bottom, left to right. The gear locations will be clearly marked on most stick shift vehicles. If the gear shift is located in the center, the car will be in neutral, at which point you should be able to easily move the gear shifter back and forth. 3 Start the Car To start a stick shift, first press the clutch all the way to the floor board with your left foot. Ensure that the gear shifter is in the neutral position then turn the ignition with the key. Ensure that the parking or emergency brake is not in use. 4 Push in the Clutch To prepare to drive the manual vehicle, press the clutch with your left foot and the brake, or the center pedal, with your right foot. 5 Put the Car into First Gear Next, position the gear shifter so that the transmission is in the first gear. Again, this should be the position furthest to the left and at the top half of the gear box. 6 Let Off the Brake Remove your right foot from the brake pedal. If you are on a flat surface, which is ideal for your first attempt, the vehicle should move very little. 7 Let Off the Clutch and Push on the Throttle Slowly begin to place less pressure on the clutch with your left foot. As you gently release the clutch, begin to press the accelerator with your right foot. This is a delicate motion. Do not accelerate your vehicle excessively. Remember that first gear is only designed for speeds up to about fifteen miles per hour. 8 Know When to Change Gears At some point, you will have released the clutch completely and will only be pressing the accelerator with your right foot. You will be driving in first gear. As the car reaches a new speed bracket you need to change the gear up one 9 Upshift to Second Gear and Repeat Take your right foot off of the accelerator while simultaneously activating the clutch with your left foot.
Downshifting When decreasing speed and downshifting, the process is the same as above for accelerating but going from a higher gear to a lower gear. You may experience higher revs when downshifting, so make sure to use more of the accelerator pedal. If you don’t accelerate enough, the car will decelerate more abruptly. Going in Reverse When you need to reverse the vehicle, oftentimes, you won’t have to push the gas pedal. If you do, it will be a little bit. Set the car into reverse when at a complete stop, and slowly let out the clutch with your other foot on the brake to control the car. Parking Manual cars don’t have a “Park” gear, so it is important to engage the emergency parking brake every single time. You will also want to put the car into gear, not neutral, that way you have both the emergency brake and the gears keeping your car from moving or rolling. Starting on a Hill Hills can be tricky to master since you will likely roll back, and risk hitting a car behind you. To easily start a manual vehicle on a hill, rely on the parking brake. Position your wheel in the direction you want to go and let off the clutch and onto the throttle as you normally would. Once you feel the car fight against your parking brake, release the brake and engage the clutch. Watch the following stick shift guide before practicing in a car: When you park a stick shift, make sure that you leave the gear shifter in first position and apply the clutch until the ignition is turned off. With a little practice and some tips from experienced stick shift drivers, you will be an expert in no time. CLICK ICON TO SHARE 93 of people found this article helpful. Click a star to add your vote 299 votes - average 4.66 out of 5 93 of people told us that this article helped them.
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The knowledge, skills, judgment, behaviour, confidence and understanding necessary to drive a car safely take time to develop. When it comes to driving, experience is key. And while you’re having your driving lessons (with your instructor or when learning to drive with friends or family), it’s worth thinking about getting familiar with the area around your Driving Test Centre and practising driving test routes as often as possible as this can significantly increase your chances of passing your driving test. One of the most difficult parts of learning to drive in a manual car is getting to grips with gear changes. Here’s a quick guide that explains the basics of this fundamental part of driving a manual car. Why do you need to change gears Gear changes are required when you need power to move your car from being at a standstill, build up its speed and keep it moving. To get the best out of your engine when driving in different road, traffic and weather conditions, you need to be able to change to the most appropriate gear at the right time. When to change specific gears can vary from car to car and whether you’re on a flat road, uphill or downhill and how much weight is in your car. As a general rule, change UP through the gears as the speed of your car increases and DOWN when you need more power from the engine (for example, when you’re going up or down hills or pulling away at low speed). Listen to your engine The best way to determine when to change gears in a manual car is to listen to the sound of the engine. The more you practise, the more familiar with it you’ll become. You’ll eventually be able to recognise the appropriate level of sound of your car’s engine at which to change the gear. When it sounds like it’s starting to work too hard or it’s starting to make a loud roaring sound, it’s time to change up gear. If the engine is starting to struggle and is making a lower sound after you’ve slowed down, then you need to change down gear.
What gear for which speed Car manufacturers specify an optimal range of speeds for each gear. As this will vary considerably between cars, below speed range suggestions are only approximate and should only be used as a general guide. Please refer to your vehicle handbook for details. When to change up gears When your car is at a standstill, you will need 1st gear (which is the most powerful gear) to move off. As you build up speed and momentum with the accelerator pedal, there comes a point when 1st gear can’t go any faster (and you can hear the engine sound get louder). This is the moment when you need to change up gears to match the engine speed to the speed of your car. The procedure for changing up through the gears is always the same. To change from 1st to 2nd, you’ll need to ease off the accelerator, press the clutch pedal all the way to the floor, move the gear lever into 2nd gear, slowly lift your foot off the clutch pedal and, at the same time, press the accelerator pedal gently and gradually to increase the engine speed. Avoid over-revving the engine as this uses up much more fuel and can cause damage to the car. Low gears are best for steep hills as they have the most power. If you’re driving uphill or have extra weight in your car, make sure that you speed up a little extra first and build up momentum before changing up gears or your car will slow down and possibly stall. When to change down gears You’ll normally have to change down gears if you have slowed down and the gear you’re in doesn’t give you enough power to drive at that lower speed. If you don’t change down into the correct gear as you slow down, the car will start to stutter and jolt as you lift your foot off the clutch pedal. You’ll also need to change to a lower gear if you’re going uphill in too high a gear and your engine starts to struggle to give enough power and when you need to increase the effect of the engine braking, for example, when you’re on a long downhill gradient.
As a general rule, you should use the foot brake to reduce the speed of your car before changing down to the most appropriate gear for the lower speed. Make sure you’re prepared for what’s ahead in the right gear. If, for example, you’re about to turn or go onto a roundabout, slow down and change down gear before. What is block gear changing It’s not necessary to use the gears in exact order when changing up and down the gearbox. Where appropriate, you can miss out a gear (or multiple gears) depending on your current or intended speed. This is called block (or selective) gear changing. It basically means skipping gears, for example, you can change down from 5th or 4th gear to 2nd gear. As you approach a junction, reduce your speed. To do this, you need to release the accelerator pedal and brake until you are going slowly enough to take the junction safely. When you have slowed down to a safe speed for the turn, select the most appropriate gear for that speed. The best gear for the job in most cars will be 2nd. Move the gear lever into neutral position and then directly to 2nd gear. Proudly created with Wix.com. The speed to change up from 1st into 2nd gear is usually between 5 mph and 10 mph. The speed to change up from 2nd gear into 3rd gear is usually from between 15 mph and 20 mph. The speed to change up from 3rd gear into 4th gear is usually from between 25 mph and 30 mph. The speed you usually change up from 4th gear into 5th gear is from between 35 mph and 40 mph. An overdrive gear allows your car to cruise at a high speed while maintaining low engine revolutions. You'll use 5th or 6th gear for highway cruising at speeds of 60 mph to 70 mph and are ideal gears for best fuel economy. You'll usually change up from 4th gear into 5th or 6th gear at a speed of around 40 mph or so. If you happen to need better acceleration for overtaking, then you can shift down a gear. Even though the server responded OK, it is possible the submission was not processed.
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