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Bradbury 4 Post Lift Manual - [Unlimited Free EBooks]
It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Im only really after the foundation plan for installing it. Anyone know where i might get one?I need to replace the nylon guide blocks, and possibly the hydraulic ram seals which is easy enough. I would like to know the layout plan though so that i have some reference for setting out the bolt holes.With an old ramp you are better to position everything then drill through the mounting holes. You can fix the control post and then line everything else up to it. They're pretty easy to do if you take you time to make sure everything is plumb. With many ramps there may have been variations so the layout won't always be right. I have the correct manual for my ramp but the dimensions don't seem to tie up at all. When I did mine I put the platform on 4 skates so it could be shuffled around easily.We used to have the platform sat on wooden blocks about 6” off the floor. At the back of the triple pulley box should be what is known as the beam roller (it’s a piece of tube with a bar running through the centre. The bar is held in place by the nylon guide blocks) Position the vertical ram tight against the beam roller, shim it so that it is perfectly vertical and ensure the base is square to the platform assembly. Drill all four foundation bolt holes but only bolt the 2 outer ones at this point. ( The inner bolts also fasten down ram cover.) Fit the hydraulic hose, lifting links, knock off flag assy, ram cover 2 remaining foundation bolts and power pack. Place the other 3 columns roughly in position, secure the lifting cables and connect power to the power pack. Raise the lift to approx 2’ ( it will be ok with the other 3 columns not bolted down) and let it swing to find its own position. (Adjust the cables so that it is roughly level) Set the guide blocks in the central position for the 3 columns and push the column snugly against them.
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Shim and square the columns then drill and bolt to the floor. Fit safety ladder racks, pulley box covers, run up ramps, then stand back and admire your work!I will give that a go.As you can see the pawl has not engaged the rack, the other 2 slave legs are the same. The pawl should never engage in normal use, only when the lifting cable goes slack as in a cable break situation. You can test the operation by setting the lift platform a few inches off the floor, then jacking it up with a trolley jack. When the lifting cable goes slack, you should find that the pawl will engage in the ladder rack. You may have to jack it up around 6” for this to happen.I'll try testing it as you suggest.Click to expand. Contacted Gemco.co.uk but they don't answer. That would be great.Contacted Gemco.co.uk but they don't answer. That would be great.I can still scan some information from the manual if you want though.So I need to know how to make the floor (where to reinforce and prepare for extra load).Also what options do I have to power this motor as regards a VSD, I have a 12amp one, would this be suitable to power this motor. I can put a ratings plate on later. Another option would be to use a single phase generator in conjunction with the VSD, If I went with this method what power rating would the generator need to be. Or if I was to use just a 3 phase generator to power the ramp what kind of rating should I look for?So most likely you will be powering this with 380 Volts. In that case star configuration is what you need. Try this link. If you can be ar5ed you can zoom in on each page then use Windows 7 Snipping Tool to save each page. Oct 17, 2012. Yes I know it's a long shot on here. But I'm trying to help a friend who has bought a second hand Bradbury 4 post car lift similar to this one Apr 27, 2011. This instruction manual has been prepared especially for you.
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Your new lift is the product of over 35 years of continuous research, testing and development; it is the most technically advanced lift on the market today. If I had the space I would always go for a 4post over a 2post lift, the slight inconvenience of some of the ramp structure getting in the way(which really only matters when you are earning a living with it) more than offsets the extra security that a 4 poster gives. Edited October 17, 2012 by Onoff. Thanks KMEI'll describe the problem so you can ask them when you see them.The driven leg is basically a tube with a section removed. I.e if you look at it's section it's a big 'C' shape.In the middle of the leg is the tall hydraulic ram. Two flat 'straps' hang down from the top of this to lift that corner of the car deck (the other 3 legs lift the platform via wire ropes)When they got the dismantled hoist, the 'straps' were unbolted from that corner of the car deck.Now they have bolted them to the deck, but with the straps outside the leg. Now the heads of the bolts won't fit through the gap to pop it back inside the leg.So you need to assemble it inside the leg. But of course then there's no access to get the bolts in.To my mind, the only way this is possible is to further dismantle the leg, so you are left with just the hydraulic ram. Hang the deck from it's straps, and then lower the leg down over the ram. But that's a lot of weight to lift quite high to do that.they have spoken to the guys that dismantled it, and they said they just 'wiggled' the leg until the two bolts popped through, springing the gap open in the process, but it seems near impossible to do that in reverse.The only other suggestion was to get the grinder out and enlarge the gap in part of the leg, but that's firmly into bodge it territory (though I can't see what harm it would actually do) Edited October 18, 2012 by ProDave. 4 Post Car Lift Installation Dave is this ramp for professional use.
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These arn't the sort of thing that wants getting wrong if people are working underneath.No for private use. The guy is a classic car collector, he has about 10 classic cars in various states of repair ranging from pristine and on the road, to rusting hulks awaiting restoration.It is however in his furniture storage warehouse (that's his main business furniture retailing) along with half a dozen of his cars, so perhaps a grey area, but he's the only one that will use it.Just to be clear, I'm not assembling it. I've wired the supply to it, but putting the thing mechanically back together is something he's puzzling over and I'm just trying to help him. I can take some pics of it either tomorrow or sat if you want?but from what you said, the ram is in the post section. I know on this one there is nothing in the posts, other than a steel cable hanging from the top to the bed - all the guts are under thereYes on this one, the ram is in the middle of the 'driven' leg. And steel ropes connect via pulleys to lift the other 3 legs as the driven one raises.I note according to a label on it, the steel ropes are due for replacement by 2014 so I hope he has factored that into his sums. Edited October 18, 2012 by ProDave. Would you like to try it too? Please try again later. Bradbury: Seal Kit 40 Series. BH-7222-02C: Bradbury: Hallprene Seal TI mdls. Bradbury 40 Series Manual. Download and Read Bradbury 40 Series Part Manual yamaha yzf1000r 1993 2000 factory service repair manual chrysler as town country caravan voyager 1992 service. Stenhoj Installation And Maintenance Manual Dk 7150. Bradbury 40 series manual, you only need to visit our website, which hosts a complete collection of ebooks. This files may also parts catalog Diagnostic Software. (4000 Series Lifts) (every 40 -Hours) WARNINGs and CAUTIONs are used in this manual to highlight operating or maintenance procedures.
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The guy is a classic car collector, he has about 10 classic cars in various states of repair ranging from pristine and on the road, to rusting hulks awaiting restoration. It is however in his furniture storage warehouse (that's his main business furniture retailing) along with half a dozen of his cars, so perhaps a grey area, but he's the only one that will use it. Just to be clear, I'm not assembling it. I've wired the supply to it, but putting the thing mechanically back together is something he's puzzling over and I'm just trying to help him. And steel ropes connect via pulleys to lift the other 3 legs as the driven one raises. I note according to a label on it, the steel ropes are due for replacement by 2014 so I hope he has factored that into his sums. On others the lift is achieved by a set of four load nuts on each post, each driven by a chain that rotates a screw. I think the ram type is preferable, because just about ALL of the wire rope can be examined. In the end he adapted a spring compressor to temporarily spring the gap in the leg open to allow the bolts to pop in. He now reports it's working fine. It's easy! Sign in here. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. James Arrowsmith from GEMCO’s marketing department met Garage owner Walid to find out the key reasons for deciding on equipment and the key reasons for choosing GEMCO.Contact GEMCO today on 01604 828 600 for further information and pricing. Click below for further information. Euro 6 Emissions Offers Contact GEMCO today to discuss your workshop needs or arrange a site visit from one of our expert team. Recently Completed Sites Click here to view the full Bradbury range.Equipment fitted includes: Bradbury H4403ATLXL Four Post Lift Bradbury 1040S CLass 4 Brake Tester Bradbury BRADLITECHECK 2L Headlamp Aligner Bradbury BJB15RDE Jacking Beam Click here to view the full Bradbury range today.View the full Bradbury range here today.
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More information coming soon.View the full Bradbury range here. In February 2016 Gunn’s Garage in Appin suffered a devastating fire which destroyed the garage. Duncan Gunn had the very difficult job of rebuilding the garage from scratch.Click here for further information on this ATL Lift. View the full Bradbury range here. Click here to view the full Bradbury range Bradbury Combi Gas and Smoke - Click Here for product information.Click here to view the entire Bradbury range. Click here to view the entire Bradbury range. Click here for further information on this lift. To view the entire Bradbury range click here. Click here for further information on this product. Click here to view the entire Bradbury range. View the full Bradbury range here. Click here for further information on this lift.Click here for further information on this lift.We'll assume you're ok with this, but you can opt-out if you wish. Accept Read More. You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. We also accept Illustrator, Photoshop and Indesign files. Please note that we do not store your credit card details or. Most of these hoists differ only slightly from each other in the manner in which they have been manufactured. For example: in length, width, load capacity, safety features, etc. Therefore it would be almost impossible to give a detailed account of how each hoist works or is installed. I will however, endeavour to detail the manner in which most of them are installed keeping in mind that certain things will vary from hoist to hoist. The following is a general overview of how a four post hoist might be installed. Figure 1.1 shows a complete four post car vehicle hoist. I will be referring to figure 1.1 below throughout much of this section. Left Hand Platform 12. Right Hand Platform 13. Cross Beam 14. Chock Ramp (Flaps) 15. Centre Beam Cover 16. Side Beam Covers 17. Box Cover Trestles ? Square ? Spirit Level ? Extension Cord ? Creeper ?
Hammer Drill with Drill Bits. Toolbox and Tools ? Plumb Line ? Sleeve Anchors ? Hydraulic Oil (E.g. Castrol AWS Hyspin 32). Shims (to level Posts). Vehicle Hoist Installation Instruction Manual The surface must also be level. If it is new, the hoist is carefully removed from its crating. The parts are carefully laid out in their respective places on the area earmarked for the installation. With the platforms and the cross beams resting on the trestles in a similar manner to the one shown in Figure 1.2below. Usually the electrical point is installed before the actual installation of the hoist. The Auxiliary Column that the Power box is installed on may be erected close to this electrical point This platform contains the pulleys and shafts, the hydraulic cylinder, air hoses (Stenhoj model), etc, while the other platform is void of any of these and is usually able to move either left or right in order to accommodate cars with a wider or narrower wheel base. The cables are then fed through the cross beams and the pulleys (usually four of them) are inserted, one on each end of the same (figure 1.3 below). Great care must be taken to ensure that the cables are fed properly and that they do not overlap, get twisted or are fed through the incorrect channels. It is very important to remember to grease the pulleys and shafts before installing them. The cables are greased after the installation has been completed. Failure to do this could see the side of the cross beams rubbing against the inside of the pillars thus causing major wear on both of these items, the ratchets (explained below) not locking into the ladders properly and a host of other problems, depending on what brand of hoist I am installing. Adjust if necessary by shimming I check to ensure that they are all lubricated, properly bolted in, and move freely, and are generally in proper working order, etc. The pillars are then moved in up against their slides on the end of the cross beams.
The posts are then shimmed using either body washers, or wheel alignment shims to make them level. This is done with the aid of a spirit level. Once levelled, a plumb line is used to insure that they are all square one to another. As the posts are continually being moved during the shimming and squaring process, they are then rechecked to ensure that they are lightly up against the thrust pads before drilling finally takes place and they are bolted down.For someone experienced though, It is more than possible to determine by whether the concrete is suitable or not. If in doubt I will sometimes drill a test hole. If my drill struggles through the concrete (in all areas) and if the sleeve anchors pull up nice and tight this is a sure sign that I am installing on a strong, well prepared slab. Obviously I can determine the depth of the concrete by using the measuring instrument on my hammer drill The cable ends are then fixed onto the top of the posts (Figure 1.7 below). All of the connections for the limit switches, hydraulic hoses, air piping (if applicable), etc are also done at this central point. The oil reservoir is filled up with the required amount of hydraulic oil. The areas around the hoist are cleared. Once the electrician is complete and once I am satisfied that everything is in order and that it is safe to do so, I can now turn the electricity on and push the up button. From here, as hydraulic oil flows into it, the hydraulic cylinder pulls up the slack on the cables, and the hoist is lifted slightly off of the trestles. I will remove these, as they have served their purpose. I will now walk around the hoist to make sure that it is safe. For example, are the cable ends securely in the pillars, have the cables disengaged the spring loaded eccentric locks, is there nothing that could potentially obstruct the hoist form being raised or lowered, etc.
I will now lower the hoist to the ground, perform another safety check and then raise it to its highest level while constantly observing it and listening out for any abnormal noises, etc. As the hoist reaches its highest level, I make sure to note that the limit switch, which automatically stops the hoist, performs that its function. Having again made sure that it is safe to do so, I will now lock the hoist on the ladders and enter in underneath it in order to check the following items. That there are no leaks on the hydraulic cylinder and hoses. ? That the slack cable limit (if applicable) switch is working properly. That the hydraulic cylinder is securely fastened to the platform. ? That the overflow pipe from the hydraulic cylinder to the oil reservoir is secure. ? Etc. Once levelled both the ladders and the cables will be locked to ensure that they do not work there way loose and that the hoist does not go out of level prematurely. It will eventually need to be re-levelled once the cables start to stretch. Once this is done and the hoist is found to be safe a vehicle will be placed on the hoist and various checks such as locking the hoist at different heights into the ladders, etc will be performed. This will all take place with the operator and manager looking on and taking instruction. The manager and operator will be given strict instruction on how to use the hoist as well as relating to service intervals. I will contact him at these intervals. The hoist can now be certified and used until its next pre planned inspection date. The user manual for the hoist will be given to the manager. This, the safety and load test certificate will be filed and kept by the manager. He has approximately one thousand vehicle hoist installations under his belt and is an expert in advising clients on various types of workshop equipment, from vehicle hoists to diagnostics, to electronic wheel service equipment.
He has also set up numerous workshops in his time in the automotive industry.
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